Courtesy of The Austrailian Battle Group
What is R/C Naval Combat?
The Concept:
"R/C Naval Combat" is a scale simulation of naval combat. Custom-build, radio-controlled warship models from early 20th Century are pitted against each other in ponds, streams, and lakes all over the world.
The Warships:
Any warship design originally laid down between 1900 and 1946 (World War I & World War II) is valid. Each model's specification is bound to its full scale version; for example, if the origanal is considered a "fast" ship, your model will also be comparatively fast.
Typical Scales used are 1/144 & 1/72; that is one foot on the model for every 144 or 72 feet on the full scale ship. Ships of either scale can be very large, for example, an 1/144 Iowa Class Battleship is over 6 feet in length and over 30lbs! However, smaller ships like PT boats can also be built. A PT boat is small enough to fit in your pocket!
Specification:
- Armament: .177” BBs through 1/4" ball bearings
- Weapon Propellant: 150psi CO2
- Armor: 1/32" - 1/8" Balsa wood
- Propulsion: Multiple .5-9 Amp DC Electric motors
- Speed: Up to 5 feet per Second (3.5 mph)
The Battle:
The warships are typically divided into fleets of Axis vs. Allied; however sometimes scenarios are used to enhance the experience. Once two ships are engaged in combat they will attempt to punch as many holes into their opponent as possible; as quickly as possible. As hull damage is accrued, bilge (water) pumps become more and more important for the ship to stay afloat. Finally, the pumps will not be able to ward off the incoming water and your ship will pay its dues to Davy Jones.
The Winner:
Unless there is a clear winner most scenarios call for a "tally of the holes"; where each side counts the number of holes they have inflicted on each other. Although this method always a winner, nobody ever really loses as we have come together for an afternoon of camaraderie and good fun.The Repair:
Once your ship returns to port (or is recovered) the hull is patched with a mixture of silk span (thin paper) and model dope (paint) is used to patch the holes. Typically, each ship is "reskinned" once or twice a season, that is to say, fresh balsa is applied. Each ship should be able to sink during battle; then be patched and ready to fight within 1/2 hour of recovery.
The Cost:
Like any hobby, the initial cost is high. However, unlike most hobbies; maintanence costs are extremely low. Building a warship can cost between $300 and $2000 US dollars, depending on complexity & your contruction abilities. Many ships can be purchased second hand typically between $800 and $1500 US dollars. Once the initial investment is made, a ship can and will last years with little to no monetary invesment. For example, we have several ship still in service that were build in the 1980s!
Typical Yearly Battle Costs:
- 3 sheets of silk span = $5
- 1 bottle of model "Dope" (paint) = $5
- 2-8 sheets of model grade balsa wood = $6-$24
- 2 CO2 bottle refills each battle = $20
- Many-Many BBs = $30
Total = $85 / yr -- Try to find another hobby where that is even remotely possible!
Frequently Asked Questions:
Do the ships really sink?
YES!Is it legal?
Yes, but your organization must get permission for use of any ponds / lakes / etc.What about insurance?
Some groups are covered, some aren't. Please check with each individual group.Doesn't Water Destroy the electronics?
Typically no; however, it is possible. All susceptible electronics are typically enclosed in watertight compartments. Many electric components, like DC electric motors, are impervious to water; that is to say they will run completely submerged.Do the shells damage the internal mechanisms?
NO! All ships are equipped with "blast shields" (thin, flexible plastic or plexiglass internal walls) mounted inside the ship that will stop or deflect the projectiles so they will not damage the delicate interior.Where do you get CO2?
CO2 can be found most readily in paintball stores. Typically the group brings a filled CO2 tank & everyone pays for the portion they use. Large CO2 tanks can be purchased wherever welding supplies & equipment are sold.When the Ship sinks, how do I get it back?
That depends on the type of ship and the depth of the water. Some captains equip their ship with an emergency buoy that float to the surface when the ship sinks. Typically these buoys are attached to the ship via a rope or cable so the ship may be pulled to the surface. This technique is typically used for deep water battles in combination with a full size rowboat. In shallow water battles, most captains simply elect to go swimming or wading after their ships. Worst case scenario is the local scuba diver is called. Some club types actually put a limit on the depth of water when choosing a potential new combat site; that is to say, they simply will not fight in deep water.How long will a ship last?
YEARS! As long as the ship is well maintained, there is no limit to the effective lifetime. We have several ships still in active service that were built in the 1980s!Are these electric or gas/Nitro powered Ships?
Electric Batteries and small 1.5” diameter motors are all that is needed to move most ships at realistic (walking pace) speed.Gas & Nitro engines aren't typically allowed because they're liable to pollute the water when the ship sinks (as they all do, sooner or later). Also, an internal combustion willsuck in water when it sinks, & since water doesn't compress inside the engine you're liable to do serious damage to the engine. Gas & nitro engines are also loud, which sort of takes away from the experience.