SB-101 'Building MN Edgar Quinet'
Last Post 02 Nov 2011 03:14 PM by Keri Morgret. 391 Replies.
AddThis - Bookmarking and Sharing ButtonPrinter Friendly
Sort:
PrevPrevNextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 7 of 20 << < 56789 > >>
AuthorMessages
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
22 Jul 2010 08:51 PM
I'll try to snap a pic and get it up in the morning.

With a weekend coming up, I plan to cut a lot of ribs out and put them loosely on the keel I will also be posting some pics of different ways to brace the wood while you cut.

I am sincerely hoping to get something resembling a subdeck design lesson going in the week ahead (or the week after, depending on how long it takes me to hand-cut the ribs. At least half of my pride in the project is in doing it totally with hand tools on the cheap!
Miller7DUser is Offline
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:190
Avatar

--
22 Jul 2010 11:39 PM
Either way, Tug, your suffering will be to everyone's benefit in the long run; when I do a convoy ship (I'm leaning seriously towards building a CV-6 Enterprise for my next project once I get the Illinois done), I'll be doing it from scratch.
"I'ma learn you a thing or three real good-like..."
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
23 Jul 2010 08:25 AM

EDIT: This is Frame 16, which is towards the front of the casement deck.   Down at the bottom, you can barely see where I drew a tangent line to make the outside edge of the frame go down to where the keel board is.  Not strictly scale, but if anyone bends over to measure that part of your ship, kick them in the hiney for being a jerk   For the rivet-counters out there, that little tangent line is within the legal 1/8" deviation from scale.

TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
23 Jul 2010 08:30 AM

EDIT: This is the revised Frame 15...  Note that the stanchion (vertical loadbearing member) above the casement deck is not just vertical. The outside edge of it is 1.75 inches from the centerline (so that when we put 1/32" balsa on it, the width will be spot-on for scale   The notch for the armor belt is to hold the forward end of the armor belt stringer, which will go no further forward.  Under current rules, you can only have ONE 1/8" stringer between any two frames, and forward of Frame 15, that is the casement deck.  (Not trying to confuse any new builders, just explaining why the notch is there!)

* (I always feminize the names of my ships, you can call yours what you like)

TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
24 Jul 2010 01:17 PM
Okay, true believers! (God, I sound like Stan Lee) This morning, I started cutting ribs for our project... and after three ribs with the hand-powered jigsaw, my arthritis told me to be weak. So I'm doing the remaining ones on my powered scrollsaw. It takes about 2-3 minutes on the powered saw, and about 5-9 minutes by hand, to cut one rib, depending on the complexity of the shape, etc, etc... Using a hand saw, bracing the wood is VERY important. I sat it on a sturdy table with a can of ready-mix concrete on it, and sawed on the edge of the table, so no more than 1-2 inches of wood was hanging in free space. More than that, and you'll have a hard time cutting as the wood flexes. Don't try to cut exactly on the lines, cut a little outside and sand or file to the correct shape. You can also sweat enough water to exceed this model's max displacement in a short morning of hand-sawing! So stay hydrated please!

(For those wondering, no I'm not hideously old nor infirm. I'm 39, with 10 years of damage from early-onset arthritis which after three ribs is making it very hard to type this! I will continue to make sure that each step is possible with hand tools, but I will break down and use power tools to save myself the pain. If you can spare $40, I recommend a no-name dremel from Harbor Freight. With an inexpensive selection of the right bits, you can cut the whole boat out with it for less money than a $200 scrollsaw).
AnachronusUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2183
Avatar

--
24 Jul 2010 08:46 PM
Share this Dremelesque wisdom oh great Sensei.
I am prepared to meet my maker, whether He is prepared for the ordeal of meeting me is another matter. -Sir Winston-
absolutekUser is Offline
Lieutenant
Lieutenant
Send Private Message
Posts:370
Avatar

--
24 Jul 2010 09:36 PM
Either that or if you live in/near canada you can go to your local Canuckistani Tire and buy one of their scroll saws on sale for less than $100.

But seriously, I have to respect those who choose to do this with hand tools.

--Chase
Chase H.
IRCWCC:
Battle Ready Ships: SMS VDT & USS Juneau
Under Construction: Henri IV & DKM Gneisenau
Battlestations 1/96
Planned: Charlemagne Class
Evil JokerUser is Offline
Veteran
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:615
Avatar

--
27 Jul 2010 08:54 PM

Here Tugboat

Southern California Region Attack Patrol (SCRAP)
http://www.scrapcombatships.com
SMS Konig - Battle Ready
SMS Von der Tann - Battle Ready
DMB Scipione Africano - Battle Ready
DKM Prinz Eugen - Battle Ready
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
27 Jul 2010 09:05 PM
Thanks, Joker! I was beginning to wonder if any 'students' were working on the project...
Evil JokerUser is Offline
Veteran
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:615
Avatar

--
27 Jul 2010 09:23 PM
I have four sets cut

i have my carpenter shop at work (the bicycle casino) and all the wood i need.
even better i am the only carpenter thay have.
Southern California Region Attack Patrol (SCRAP)
http://www.scrapcombatships.com
SMS Konig - Battle Ready
SMS Von der Tann - Battle Ready
DMB Scipione Africano - Battle Ready
DKM Prinz Eugen - Battle Ready
AnachronusUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2183
Avatar

--
27 Jul 2010 11:58 PM
Following but keeping my self to working on 1 armored cruiser at a time.

Though in the vein of this project where is a good cheap source of 1/8 ply for decks? I realize this is skipping on a bit in the lesson plan and I won't be needing till then.

I am prepared to meet my maker, whether He is prepared for the ordeal of meeting me is another matter. -Sir Winston-
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 06:07 AM
It's okay, I skipped ahead and bought a 12"x24" piece of 1/8" ply at Hobby Lobby for $6.99. No shipping to pay, just a little tax. I figured that I'll be there shortly, so I may as well have the material on hand! Tonite I will be posting a lesson on 'putting the ribs on the keel', which is not REALLY difficult, but there are a few tricks. Joker, you are the man Soon we will do the 'laying out and cutting the subdeck' lesson, after which we will need some 1/8" plywood. A good bit for the deck, some smaller bits (scrap from cutting the deck) for the casement decks, and some thin (maybe 1/2" wide) long pieces for the armor belt.
radollar2000User is Offline
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:120
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 09:43 AM

Don't Worry Clark I'm still here too. I had to finish working on a bookcase I have been building that was taking up space in my basement. I've gotten all the ribs layed out and ready to cut. That should happen today as I've got most of the day to work on it...the joy of being jobless.

TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 06:35 PM
You guys shouldn't need more than 2 square feet of 1/8" ply. By the way, it goes without saying (unless you are a Casino's carpenter) that you need to save all your scrap wood, you never know when that little piece my be needed to reinforce a motor mount or something!
AnachronusUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2183
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 06:42 PM
I can get 6"x12" but I guess the deck does not have to be one piece.
I am prepared to meet my maker, whether He is prepared for the ordeal of meeting me is another matter. -Sir Winston-
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 07:38 PM
Mine won't be in one piece, but that's fine. If someone has enough large scraps of 1/8" laying around to build a deck, I'm all for it!

Tonite I got a bit more done, cutting ribs, gluing to the keel (pics, etc are in the camera for the lesson to come). I cannot find 4 ribs, which vexes me greatly, since they were already cut. I had some guests in the shop and stuff got moved around (possibly by me, who knows). So after I finish Edie, I know that I will find 4 ribs in my shop.
AnachronusUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2183
Avatar

--
28 Jul 2010 10:23 PM
Indeed. That is how the universe works.
I am prepared to meet my maker, whether He is prepared for the ordeal of meeting me is another matter. -Sir Winston-
U.S.S. ArazonaUser is Offline
Midshipman
Midshipman
Send Private Message
Posts:40
Avatar

--
29 Jul 2010 07:01 PM
hey tug, i know this is getting ahead of the lesson, but what type of radio do i need. i want to go ahead and see what type of deal i can get on one.
TugboatUser is Offline
Veteran
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4438
Avatar

--
29 Jul 2010 09:11 PM
For my ship (Edie [because all my ships are girls!]), I bought a $45 Chinese 7 channel 2.4GHz radio. If you buy a radio off Hobbyking.com, make sure that you get some good standard servos with it in the order, because you can buy them for like $5 each, and they won't add to the shipping cost much! There are several inexpensive 2.4GHz radios available now (some are discussed in the Electrical and/or Product Review sections of these forums). Another option is hitting E-bay for a used 3,4, or 6-channel radio in the 75MHz frequency band. Do NOT buy a 72MHz radio, as these are aircraft-legal only, and not allowed to be used on surface ships (nor subs!). A couple of guys have gotten lucky at yard sales with radios buried amongst the clutter.

For our purposes, you will need to buy 4 servos: 1 for throttle, 1 for rudder, 1 for guns, and at least 1 spare (I would buy 2 for a total of five). The pump will be controlled by a simple auto pump switch, so someone using a 3-channel radio (lots of RC car guys have these) can run this ship without a problem. I will post the model number of the servos I'm using tomorrow, I don't feel like going out into the hot, humid, oppressively sweaty Georgia night to look at one right now! We will have a lesson on waterproofing the ones I'm using (which are very similar to the Futaba standard servos) before too long. The good news is that they do pretty well, even with no waterproofing! Not to say that I would be SO irresponsible as to send a ship out with un-waterproofed servos!! NOTE: When buying a radio, find out how many and what kind of servos are included. Micro servos can be used for throttle switches, but not for guns nor the rudder.
U.S.S. ArazonaUser is Offline
Midshipman
Midshipman
Send Private Message
Posts:40
Avatar

--
29 Jul 2010 10:02 PM
K, thanks. I'll see what I can get.
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 7 of 20 << < 56789 > >>


Active Forums 4.1
You must be logged in to use this module.