R/C Naval Combat

Thanks Rob,
Let me know when the voids are filled and I'll pick the hull up. One way to fill large voids is to carefully dremel them open and fill with a mix of chopped matt and resin. Hull price??

With the Renown hull done I'll have to convert the Furious hull to a Class 5 carrier - I don't need two light BCs!

Bob

Hi Bob,
I pulled the hull out from the mold this morning. It is better than the first one. However, it is still a long way from perfect -- There are couple small pieces of the edge missing along the bulge and I added a lot of extra weight when I cut and reglassed the voids -- but it still lighter than the first. The FG thins out at the stern and needs a little reinforcing -- I can't do it because the house reeks.

Anyway you can have a look and decide if it workable.

Rob,
I should be able to drop by this weekend. When will you be available?

Bob

quote:

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Originally posted by Bob Pottle

Rob,
I should be able to drop by this weekend. When will you be available?

Bob

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I am available all day during the week and Saturday afternoon looks good.

Rob,
Can you email me your address and phone number? I should be able to drop by Saturday afternoon. I'll bring you 3 turrets.

Bob

What configuration are you guys building them in?
I am building Hood in her 1941 config. Even though she will be slower. I had thought that a couple of seconds in speed would be missed during the combat, but I found out that I had better accuracy with my Renown this year, possibly because she was running a couple seconds slower than her maximum allowed speed.
I am very excited about these builds, mainly because I have a love for the battlecruisers.
Mikey

I'm going to build HMS Repulse as she looked after her 1930 refit when she got the extra armour strake from B to Y turret. She still had at 30-31 knots speed then. I believe she was slower when sunk in 1941 and had a more complex superstructure.

Bob

I'm excited that people are building these ships, Always nice to see something different on the water. One thing I always liked about the Hood is the lack of something to shoot at in the stern step deck area.

Rob,
Could you let me know the distances in mm on your 1/144 scale Renown plan from the bow to the center of A barbette and from the stern to the center of Y barbette? I need those figures to mark where the armour belt will be added above the bulges on HMS Repulse.

Thanks,
Bob

Hi Bob,
My long ruler (or as Eric Broderick pointed out -- if it cost more than $5.00 then it's a scale) is calibrated only in inches -- but it does have 1/100s of an inch.

from bow to center of A barbette --- 16.61 in
from stern to center of Y barbette - 11.60 in

Hi,
Started cutting out the hull today -- made all the cuts but not all of the panels came out -- missed some corners since I was really trying to avoid nicking the ribs. These will come out tomorrow.

I decided to go with 3/8 in ribs. I am not really sure of the quality of my FG job so I want to make sure the ribs are strong enough. This has the added benefit of reducing the number of cuts I have to make.

Rob,
Do you drill holes at the corners of the ribs/windows?
Thanks,

Rob,
Am I right in thinking that gives you ~19 x 3/8" ribs with windows about 3 inches wide?

See my calculations for 1/4" ribs in the Repulse thread. I'm going to add more 2 layers of matt to the Repulse hull so the 1/4" ribs will be strong enough.

Thanks for the measurements! No metric ruler/scale??? Maybe Santa will bring one.

Bob

quote:

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Originally posted by Gettysburg114th

Rob,
Do you drill holes at the corners of the ribs/windows?
Thanks,

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I didn't this time but I have in the past.

quote:

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Originally posted by Bob Pottle

Rob,
Am I right in thinking that gives you ~19 x 3/8" ribs with windows about 3 inches wide?

See my calculations for 1/4" ribs in the Repulse thread. I'm going to add more 2 layers of matt to the Repulse hull so the 1/4" ribs will be strong enough.

Thanks for the measurements! No metric ruler/scale??? Maybe Santa will bring one.

Bob

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18 x 3/8 and 2 x 1/4. The windows are not the same width, I crowd a couple of extra ribs in the bow and stern and widen the gaps in the middle. This is because a grazing shot on the bow or stern can leave a long hole before it penetrates or bounces away.

I have a very nice metric ruler, but they it is only 6 in long.