R/C Naval Combat

I remember that site. There's an official model of that ship too but it doesn't show the 2nd funnel being taller than the first. Is your 2nd funnel going to be taller than the first one? I think the 2nd funnel being taller takes the look away for sure howeve it is interesting. Either way it's a great looking ship. Motion Models version is the most detailed version I have seen yet though. Your plan doesn't show the rear funnel being taller though.

There are some battle photos of this monster in the photos section on this site.
Xenia, Ohio November battle thread, and the fall regionals Xenia, thread.
Mikey

Hey Mikey,
How is the monster doing??
Nikki

She does very well. As with most new ships there are some things that need worked out but she is stable, very manoverable and tough as nails.

Very cool, thanks! Is it possible at this point to determine how she stacks up against the other large BBs?

Mikey ran her against Matt's H-39 and came out on top IIRC. That result may have had to do with experience of the captain, so YMMV.

I love what mikey said about that battle!!!!
Nikki

I had someone asking questions about how I made the skegs on this project. So I thought I would post more info here.

The skegs are made out of three pieces of aircraft plywood.
The two outer pieces are 1/16" ply, and their main purpose is to align the center piece when it is cut in two.
The two outer pieces can be any thickness. I used 1/16" ply in order to keep the thickness of the skegs to a minimum.

The inner piece of aircraft plywood is 1/4" thick. It's main purpose is to house the stuffing tube and keep it aligned during
installation, and then to give it strength in order to help protect the shaft from damage that might occur during transporting
the ship from table to the water, or loading into the van and such.
I used 1/4" thick plywood, as that was the outer diameter of the stuffing tubes I used.
The inner piece starts out as one piece, but I traced out the area where the stuffing tubes would be located, and then cut
that part out. At this point there are two inner pieces. The upper piece, and the lower piece.
I had drilled holes in the assembly so that I could install screws to hold the inner pieces in place after the stuffing tube section
was removed.
I took my stuffing tubes which were about 1/2" longer than the skegs, so that I could leave about 1/4" protruding at each end
of the skegs in order to avoid getting epoxy in the tubes themselves.
I scuffed up the stuffing tubes with heavy grit sandpaper so that the epoxy would be able to get a good grip.
After making sure that everything lined up correctly, I took them apart, and applied the epoxy to all of the surfaces, and re-assembled them.
After installing the screws, I clamped everything as well.
After everything was cured, I removed the screws, and filled in the holes with bondo.

In order to make sure that the skegs remained in place while installing them in the hull, I cut slits in the hull that were shorter than the skegs,
so that when the hull was upside-down, the skegs would drop into the slits, but not fall through.

I then prepaired some spruce strips to help anchor the skegs to the inside of the hull. I cut relief slits in the spruce similar to what some folks
do when installing a sub-deck. That way the strips could be easily bent to follow the contour of the hull.
The skegs were then installed with bondo with some clean areas left for super-glue in order to tack things in place while the bondo cured.
I then installed the strips with epoxy and super-glue. When everything was finshed setting up, I hit everything again with epoxy to seal it.

I feel like the skegs are plenty strong. But they can also be re-enforced on the inside if need be.
I do wish I had taken the time to clean things up a bit on the inside of the hull before applying the epoxy, but I was running behind schedule
on the project, and skipped that.
Hope this helps.
Mikey

Thanks for the info Mikey. I will be starting the NC soon so this is going to be helpful.