R/C Naval Combat

Accuracy is the way to go, even if it does not matter it does add that "funky predreadnought look"

I agree. I didn't choose this boat for its ***-kicking stats, I chose it because of how much detail I can add. The WWCC gives out an award each battle for the "most detailed ship". Whoever wins that the most times in a year gets to keep the trophy. With at least a quarter of our active members seriously competing for that trophy, it's those little things that will make the difference for me. Of course, I hope it still is an ***-kicking battleship, but with only four 7/32" guns it'll be hard to get the respect I think it deserves.

Well be sure and paint it up all Victorian. Didn't the IJN go for black and grey?

I like the first one the best but thats me.
This place has two model cruisers of that era that are russian look similar.
Digitalnavy.com

Definitely the first. I love the way the masts are black (?) up to the fighting tops. However the light grey-green is the more historically significant.

First one for sure. Way cooler looking, even if it's peacetime colors.

IST is the best looking.

I, to love the first picture. The multiple colors just scream out attention and detail. It's why I loved to model german armor. The multi colored scemes where attention getters.

Kim

I carved the bow and stern on Saturday. will post pictures later, along with details. Meanwhile, it's time to fiberglass the bow, stern, and bottom. What weight of fiberglass should I use, and how many layers? The bottom is 1/64" ply with a 3/32" aircraft-ply plank defining the bottom edge of the penetrable, and the bow and stern are solid white oak and aircraft ply.

I'd also like to fiberglass the casemates on my VU. Those were carved from basswood and dowel.

I've used 1 to 1.5 oz cloth to good effect for hulls. The cloth is thin enough to work around curves and sturdy enough for battling. To prevent overzealous guns from damanging the forward 2" of the bow, I add a second layer of cloth as a preventative measure.