R/C Naval Combat

No need to rush on my account. I am curious, but it is survivable. [:)]

quote:

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Originally posted by donanton

The turret was actually printed today. IT is done with the first step, but I stil need to cleanit, soak it in water to get the bubbles out and cover it with epoxy a few times.

No pictures yet Anachronus.

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I wanna get this turret ready so that when there is a batte, its done. Plus i wanna bring it home so it doesn't get broken anymore.

PICTURE TIME!!


Turret on the processing table.



Turret with broken barrels



Size comparison



The hollow bottom




The printer



The model of printer I used

I'll find out what powder was used and what glue by the weekend.

Anthony

Sweet! Thanks.

How long does it take to "print"?

I think it took a few hours going at 2-4 layers a minute.

I know what I want for Christmas...

Allegedly an abs printer is cheaper than other 3d printers. A teacher told me his company got a sweet deal on an abs printer for 28 grand.

But check this out: http://www.dimensionprinting.com/printers/printing-bst.shtml

ABS printer for 19 grand.

We have the Dimension sst1200 at work, I was able to get a pice of scrap material that they were going to throw out. I'll have to cut it down to the correct thickness to test it. Its abs plastic, so I suspect it will hold up well since I know people use abs sheet for super structure since it can take a hit. Might need to be waterproofed since it lays down a thin "thread" as it prints, im not sure if water could seep into it and weigh it down or not. Both can be tested.

Looks like the one Donanton got his turret made on uses powder with some sort of binder? is that correct? The barrels breaking off on that doesnt look good but if the main body holds up its easy enough to add barrels out of wood or whatever. Still seems costly to build ships from but maybe if you were using it to make molds for fiberglass hulls you could recoup some of the cost. Well that and you could print a whole host of other cool things too. ...hmm save up for a house(with a workshop) or buy a 3d printer for my apartment...hmmm

Snipehunter, yes the z510 uses powder and a binder. The barrels broke off before it was made stronger by soaking it in water and epoxying it. It's free for me for now since I'm still going to the college. Hopefully the turret I made holds up and I can do rib testing.

Looking forward to the results of the tests.

Apparently my teacher felt bad that that the barrels on the turret broke, that and he had to reprint someone else's project, so he printed another turret up with twice the binder so thin parts won't break so easily. I'm guessing that the turret is 2x as strong as the origional. I really have no idea and the teacher who works the 3d printer left for the day. Now I'll have 2 turrets to test at the next battle I go to.

He gave me a "good" idea when we were talking about the ship. He commented on how the ship would probably weigh too much if the hull was a solid piece of printer product. It wouldn't be anyway cause they probably wouldn't let me use that much of their supplies without charging me. But what about making a hull of similar shape and hollowness to the fiberglass hulls with a 3d printer? i.e. a thin skinned hull printed in pieces small enough that they could be printed all at once. [:D] That wacky idea willl have to wait for the results of the ballistic tests.

Whatever happens I need to do it before I graduate. I don't know if they're fond of people that arent paying tuition using their fancy equipment.

Seeya!
Anthony

Look at this

http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/industry/4224759.html

$2400

Make a chocolate prototype of the ship. If the dimensions are wrong, eat it or remelt the chocolate. Maybe extend the printing table and print the whole ship at once. Just render it with all the mounts, water channels and holes aready as one piece. Getting rammed while driving a silicone ship would reesult in no damage.

Even if the ballistics aren't totally great, you could make ribs (or ship frame) and give it a skin of fiberglass on the outside...

Very interesting work you've done, Anthony :) Very well done, indeed.

Anyone know how to connect pieces of silicone? Even though it is soft, it is strong. Pieces made on a rep@home would need to be connected somehow if the printing area is not readily adjustable. Even if is readily adjustable, you would still need to install waterchannels and equipnemt holders.

You could combine the rep@home and 3d printed parts (from a powder based printer like the z510.) The silicone would provide shock dampering if the media you use for 3d printing of ribs cant hold up to battle situations.

So many ideas but so little time.

I should be bringing the turret home on monday. Then wait for a sunday battle.

Post test pictures of the harder turret. Remember that this turret had twice the resin as the original turret whose turrets were broke before i got it.

Top, left, and right side views with major pieces re connected.






Picture showing fracture lines. It took under 10 shots from under 3' away to break it as so.





Now it's a compact turret.



Rob from NYBG suggested a layer or two of fiberglass on the turret might have made it battle worthy.

Not good for battling, but would be good for making molds.

Any suggestions?

i'd make molds out of them ... wit the printer you can make highly detailed masters - and fortunately only have to make one. Then make a mold and you can cheaply pop out multiples.