The switches I just received are the firmtronics dual 2.5A switch and the dimension engineering pico switch (1A rating at 24VDC). I really would like to figure out how to post pictures so you can see their size. The firmtronics switch is approx. 1.25"L x .375"W x .25"H. It uses a two servo connectors to connect the loads, which it can switch two of i.e. two solenoids, way cool! The pico switch can only switch a single load however it looks very robust and has larger terminals with a screw style retention. It is a little larger at approx. .75" x .625" x .5". I see a small relay on the dimension switch versus an apparently all digital looking firmtronics switch. The dimension switch has standard soft servo wire. The firmtronics switch uses a stiffer wire. Mike Butts
Where did you find those firmtronics? There are many versions of that switch that look alike, most have firmware that is incompatible with our hobby. The pico will switch 1amp at 24vdc, good enough for a small relay, but I wouldn't say robust. Be careful what you connect to it.
That Firmtronics switch look interesting. Can switch two solenoids up to 6v at 2.5a each for only $19USD. http://www.firmtronics.com/rc-products/rcswitch.php
Robust was referring to the construction appearance of the pico. I sourced my firmtronics through this URL: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-DGSW5.html Indications are that stock is low. In defense of the pico switch if at 24VDC it is rated at 1A. Then it is rated at 24w+-. which means it should be able to handle 2A+- at 12VDC. That is if the electrical theory stuff does hold true. A URL for the pico from the same vendor: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-PICOSW1.html A quick google of Dimension Engineering or Firmtronics will take you to the manufacturer site of either one.
If all your looking for is a single switch function per channel at good price, Pololu has a nice 30V 15A board for $10. http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1211 It needs a bit of soldering to make work. I'm using this in my Mogador project.
The 12v 200psi capable solenoid I ordered uses a 6w coil. Thats .5A and leaves me all sorts of options hence my selection of these decided low rating switches. I am very excited about the firmtronics switch and just got the dimension switch for comparison. Note that both require a flyback diode for inductive loads (relay, solenoid, etc...). The pololu board is great! It also has an integrated flyback diode, way cool! I will be highly inclined to buy several medium ones later for a 1 switch per gun setup utilizing an 8 channel receiver on a larger ship. I think the firmtronics is a mosfet based board like the pololu. In addition both of those boards I have appear to be proprietary and not a relabeled chinese parts. Not that I am hating on that stuff, I have spent hundreds at HobbyKing;-) Mike Butts
Steve, the board that Firmtronics sells direct or through robot dealers is not the right firmware for our hobby. I had to have them made 'custom'. The stock firmware is not momentary. The version for our hobby is 6amps per switch not 2.5amps either. FYI As far as the pololu, I looked at those but if I have two firing positions then I would need two boards. I would rather have one board that handles two switches than to have 2 boards, not to mention the pair would be slightly larger than the firmtronics. I have found no need (with no triple gun turrets) for anything more than 6amps in any ship I have had. I am not sure if getting a board that can handle a larger load for use with a small load is any advantage at all. I dont know how to evaluate that. I am sure bigger is better but I havent needed it personally. J
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/images/DG-RCSwitch.pdf This is the instruction sheet for the stock Firmtronics board. If you look at page 3 you can see the operation of the switch. By moving it the stick you run through stages of flashing the switches and ultimately turning them on. So when you throw the stick up for example, it will 'flash' several times which in MWCI is a violation of the rules (one shot per stick movement). I am not sure what Big Gun or Treay allows. J
If you use button switches on the TX with the appropriate electronic item to "tweak" the signal (impulse range?) then could that work? My electronics theory is lacking. My thought is that when either button is depressed it puts out a specific pulse. Mike Butts
No as you move the stick it goes through a cycle, listed on page 3. So as you move the stick to the full extension up or down the switch will power on and off more than once. I have never tested that board so perhaps its possible to set the 'travel' to full with the resistors and bypass the flashing. I didn't want to risk the money personally but as you already have them you could try it to see.
I have been using both the Pololu board and Pico switch in my Roanoke for the last two years. Both have been very reliable. I have Pico switches running the 12 V Clippard solenoids on my guns, and the Pololu ran a 5 V relay for motor reversing.
Electrical theory for Mike B (Y'know, we have a LOT of Mikes in the hobby!*) The little switch rated at 1A at 24V is NOT rated for 2A @ 12V or other permutations... while P = IE, the rating is not based on wattage. Volts pushes the current, but amps gets the work done. so the heat that the switch handles is based on Heat = I^2*R, which means that if you double the current, you quadruple the heat inflicted on that poor little switch. Kind of like a stalled motor is using a lot of watts, but it's all being used to burn the insulation off the windings, not to turn the prop. *I'm thinking that statistically speaking, that if my wife and I have a kid and I want to make sure he will be really into my favorite hobby, I should name him Mike. Good idea?
From left to right: Dimension Engineering Battle Switch, their Pico Switch, Pololu 3A board, and Hansen Hobbies NERS 1.2A switch And to add a twist to what Tugboat said, the switch rating is for continuous use. The switch can carry more load if only used briefly, like when firing a gun solenoid.
We seem to have hijacked this thread so I made a new one to compare switches. www.rcnavalcombat.com/tabid/58/afv/...fault.aspx Thanks, J
