Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 09 Feb 2010 02:08 PM | | I have a Bismarck. I was at the lake today and burned out my second resistor in a week. They are 25 watt, 3 ohm resistors. I have them on a 12 volt system. I am looking at a different option to a resistor but just wanted to see all the choices out there. Also, if somebody had the same problem, please help!! | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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SnipeHunter
 Commander
 Posts:701

 | | 09 Feb 2010 03:17 PM | | What are you using the resistor for? What circuit is it in? You're only going to be able to draw a little over 2 amps through it on a 12V circuit, If you have it in series with a motor I wouldn't be suprised if they were seeing more than 2 Amps. | | | |
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 09 Feb 2010 03:51 PM | | I am using it for the drive motors. | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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SnipeHunter
 Commander
 Posts:701

 | | 09 Feb 2010 04:53 PM | | What is the purpose of the resistor? Why are then in the circuit to begin with? Speed control? If so Id suggest either using an ESC or just going with a basic H-Bridge switch design, using a resistor is going to waste a lot of energy. ESCs are more expensive and easier to destroy but allow adjustable speeds. H-Bridge's are fwd-off-rev but are cheaper and easy to fix in the field. | | | |
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Iceman
 Rear Admiral (RDML)
 Posts:1186

 | | 09 Feb 2010 10:16 PM | | I would run try dropping the system down to 6 volts, the motors would slow down also. If it is close, tweak the props if that is a option. Also a metal band wrapping the motor will drop it's rpms. | | Rob A.
USS Alabama USS Arizona USS Saratoga
DKM Bismarck USS John Brown
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NYBG/ | |
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wrenow
 Lieutenant
 Posts:311

 | | 10 Feb 2010 09:27 AM | | We used to use heavy duty wire-wound rheostats to provide speed adjustment in club ships way back, with an H bridge switch for fwd/rev (aka MAG switch).
We have since moved to much more efficient geared motors and an ESC - ends up costing similar or less than the previous setup, gives variable speed, better battery life, greater reliability, etc.
Cheers, | | Wreno NTXBG
USS Lake Shore
USS Reluctant
USS Nathanial Greene
Dunkerque
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Bob
 Commander
 Posts:601

 | | 10 Feb 2010 11:11 AM | | Wow, people still use this old tech in their ships??? Oh wait I've had one in my LST since 05. Wonder when that thing will die? But she's got such tinny motors and props there is no heat build up at all. My first Swampy kit came with a resistor, I was not sure what to do with it. The first thing Curly (Local vet) did when he opened my ship was laugh and toss it in the trash. | | | |
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jadfer
 Lieutenant Commander
 Posts:570

 | | 10 Feb 2010 12:13 PM | | Most ESC will run at 12V. That would be a good drop in option. | | | |
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jadfer
 Lieutenant Commander
 Posts:570

 | | 10 Feb 2010 12:21 PM | | Hey are you the Alex that put up the two videos recently? I just saw them yesterday for the first time. So you already have the Biz on the water? What is your primary group IRCWW or MWCI?
Thanks,
Johnny | | | |
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 10 Feb 2010 12:51 PM | | I think that is what I am going to go with, the ESC. Yes, that is me in the youtube videos. I am IRCWW. | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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jadfer
 Lieutenant Commander
 Posts:570

 | | 10 Feb 2010 12:59 PM | | I would like to see the finished product. You got us all excited on youtube with the teaser and all. Good luck on the upgrade. BTW one of our ace captains is using the banebots 45amp version, encased in epoxy. | | | |
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 10 Feb 2010 01:05 PM | | Would that be Phill? I didnt know anybody was excited about my videos. I guess I will have to get the next ones out right quick. | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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wrenow
 Lieutenant
 Posts:311

 | | 10 Feb 2010 02:56 PM | | For ESCs, If you are new to them, I strongly recommend you read the article "ESC's Lessons Learned" on the NTXBG.org knowledgebase. And, specific suggestions - Purchase an ESC rated to the maximum rated stall current drqw of all motors atttached to it. A 550 style motor can draw over 85A each at stall. If you use a 15A ESC on a pair of 550s it WILL let the magic smoke out, probably at some inopportune moment. Know what to do with the red wire (see article), or you risk letting out the magic smoke. Be sure you know the features of the ESC you are buying (there are a plethora of featuresets). What you want is one with forward and reverse, no delay in going form one to another. Some have different limits in forward or feverse, or have a delay going from fwd to rev, or the other way, or both. Some (the Polk) have a limit on time spent in rev (not something great for IRCWCC, where combat in reverse is permitted). All of the above said, I have been using ESCs for a long time, and have had great success. I highly recommend you get to know about them. But, like anything else, there is a bit of a learning curve. Cheers, | | Wreno NTXBG
USS Lake Shore
USS Reluctant
USS Nathanial Greene
Dunkerque
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Stokamoto Stokomoto
 Vice Admiral
 Posts:3730

 | | 10 Feb 2010 05:47 PM | | Posted By tgalx3 on 09 Feb 2010 02:08 PM
I have a Bismarck. I was at the lake today and burned out my second resistor in a week. They are 25 watt, 3 ohm resistors. I have them on a 12 volt system. I am looking at a different option to a resistor but just wanted to see all the choices out there. Also, if somebody had the same problem, please help!! This caught my eye as I have the stock swampy resistor 25 watt 3ohm. The only time I fried it when the sliding ring touched one of the tabs with a wire attached. Since then that's all Iever used in Bismack and the resistor is 19 yrs old. What kind of dirvie motors are you using? I only use 1 large 970 motor that has a 10 amp draw. Even still just with a 12v 7amp I used to get about 2.5 hrs of run time with pump in action. I originally used a 12 v motor for pump and Drive motor but use only 6v for the last 14 yrs. Resistors do give off heat to expell energy not used but so do ESCS. With the speed adjust resistor I just moved the coil to a selected spot trialed for speed and made an adjustment. Once I found the sweet spot for exact speed I set it and left it at that and never moved it. If you wired it incorrectly your going to instantly fry the resistor. My Bismarck is going through refit and I;m reinstalling the resistor again and I got spares in case it fries.I found the resistors was a cheap and at least for me a very reliable way to tune speed, set it and forget about it. No maintenance and if cooked cheap to replace. DIdn't require any plug ins. Whatever you decide try to get as much info on the product and from Captains who use the systems. I'm old school so I'm comfortable with a cheap way to tame my Beasts speed. My Yamato on the other hand has no speed controls other than drag props and gears. Are you using direct drive or gears and what type of motors? High speed or Torque? If your going to Nats looking forward to seeing you there and teaming up. 
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Stokamoto Stokomoto
 Vice Admiral
 Posts:3730

 | | 10 Feb 2010 05:57 PM | | One other thing... forgot to mention. If you overload the resistor due to resistance whether through a combo of resistance of the motor prop shaft against the stuffing box, weeds or bottoming out you can overolad the resitor and burn it out. Maybe a resistor for each motor would solve the problem. If your motors are undepowered and drawing more amps due to excessive load that could translate into the resistor and cook it. Just some things I Noiticed when I was using resistors in Bismarck in the early days. | | | |
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 10 Feb 2010 08:42 PM | | Posted By Stokamoto on 10 Feb 2010 05:47 PM
Posted By tgalx3 on 09 Feb 2010 02:08 PM
I have a Bismarck. I was at the lake today and burned out my second resistor in a week. They are 25 watt, 3 ohm resistors. I have them on a 12 volt system. I am looking at a different option to a resistor but just wanted to see all the choices out there. Also, if somebody had the same problem, please help!! This caught my eye as I have the stock swampy resistor 25 watt 3ohm. The only time I fried it when the sliding ring touched one of the tabs with a wire attached. Since then that's all Iever used in Bismarck and the resistor is 19 yrs old. What kind of dirvie motors are you using? I only use 1 large 970 motor that has a 10 amp draw. Even still just with a 12v 7amp I used to get about 2.5 hrs of run time with pump in action. I originally used a 12 v motor for pump and Drive motor but use only 6v for the last 14 yrs. Resistors do give off heat to expell energy not used but so do ESCS. With the speed adjust resistor I just moved the coil to a selected spot trialed for speed and made an adjustment. Once I found the sweet spot for exact speed I set it and left it at that and never moved it. If you wired it incorrectly your going to instantly fry the resistor. My Bismarck is going through refit and I;m reinstalling the resistor again and I got spares in case it fries.I found the resistors was a cheap and at least for me a very reliable way to tune speed, set it and forget about it. No maintenance and if cooked cheap to replace. DIdn't require any plug ins. Whatever you decide try to get as much info on the product and from Captains who use the systems. I'm old school so I'm comfortable with a cheap way to tame my Beasts speed. My Yamato on the other hand has no speed controls other than drag props and gears. Are you using direct drive or gears and what type of motors? High speed or Torque? If your going to Nats looking forward to seeing you there and teaming up. 
I am old school too. I have used the old swampy resistors forever. I would prefer to use those but I don't mind checking out other options. That is my current theory right now. My prop shaft is causing too much drag on the motor increasing the amps needed and frying the resistor. I ordered a new resistor and grounded and greased the prop shaft so it spins nice and smooth. hopefully it will fix the problem. I have the same set up as you for the Bismarck. One big motor, straight shaft with a dog bone, no gears.
I still need to battle my beast but I would really like to go to NATS. | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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warspiteIRC Veteran
 Lieutenant
 Posts:451

 | | 11 Feb 2010 09:40 AM | | IRC has a battle in April in Maryland and one in May in Ohio, come out and play! | | | |
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 11 Feb 2010 11:31 AM | | I wish I could but I live in Washington St. | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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Stokamoto Stokomoto
 Vice Admiral
 Posts:3730

 | | 11 Feb 2010 07:55 PM | | I will install my new resistor and let you know how it goes. If your using the same motor and prop I found that if you can spin the prop and it rotates around at least twice then your good to go. If it barely spins than you may have to run it on the table to get the grease moving around inside the stuffing tube. I remember one time I had a type of plumbers grease and I packed it in tight in the stuffing tube. Well the prop barely turned over once by hand. In the water it created a lot of resistance making the motor work that much harder. I just use lithium grease now and it works fine. How is the alignment between the motor shaft and universal joint to prop shaft? Make sure no binding there. Make sure your motor's front opening is not complety covered up. It needs air on that side of it to keep from over heating. Also when bolting the motor to the faceplate of the motor mount if that's the way you have it make sure it's not over tight. That wil put stress on the motor. Do you have the pump wired through the resistor or is it seperate? For setup I just used the original wiring setup from Swampy's old kit and it works like a charm. I still have the orignial copy from the kit. There was 2 incidents I had with this motor. One I got th e briight ideal to spray WD-40 in side the motor can. Well that's because I never lubed the darn thing after 6 yrs of hard use. Doh! 2ND was a biszarre one. Those lare openings in the motor can on the sides are quite accomodating to small bbs that spill over when loading C turret Cannon. Put a screen over this area to prevent bbs from entering the can. See a bb stuck there can jam the motor and grind it to a halt or make the worst kind of noise short of throwing a rock in a dryer on high spin. Other than that that's about it on that part.
Looking forward to teaming up as well with all the Bismarck's that wil be there.
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Alex Veteran
 Ensign
 Posts:231

 | | 11 Feb 2010 08:12 PM | | From the sound of it you and I do have the same motor. But you can never really tell untill they are side by side on a table. I have never had a problem with my pumps. I did wire them backwards so I only got a 6" stream instead of a 6 ft stream but that is really the only problem I have had with my pumps. I have grinded down the prop shaft a little bit and it is making a huge difference. I think that is why my resistors are burning out. Im thinking Im going to replace my entire prop shaft and tube. The tube had a dent in it when I bought it. I didnt think it would be a problem but I guess it is along with a couple other things. Thanks for the advice. Do they have a date for NATS? | | | Kapitän zur See Ernst Lindemann | |
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