R/C Naval Combat

Your receiver is running off your 12 volts system? It runs on 6 volts. I believe you have to come off the ESC red wire to power it. (the battery elimination circuit). There is the source for your 5 volt delta boards also. Knock the volts down a little with a diode in series to your boards and you are done. You could probably attach it through a unused channel on your receiver.

well yes that is how it is set up sorry didn't think it was not that obvious guess i should have stated it my bad

SPECTRUM DX6
MTRONICS viper Marine 40

I may just take a road trip to NY when it all comes in [:D]

You'll have to anyway so we can put her through sea trials. Wiring will be a piece of cake.

[:p]

The diode goes in parallel with the load (solenoid or motor, depending on what you're powering), not in series with anything! Like Nate said, it's in there wired backwards to the normal current flow so that it can dissipate the reverse current surge caused by the collapse of the magnetic fields in the load when power is shut off... (or when the current thru the load changes to a lower value). For this application, Schottky diodes are good as they have a lower voltage drop (~ .2V) and faster recovery times. If you are using diodes to drop the control voltage down to a safe level, be sure that your diodes are dropping what you think they're dropping! (ie if you use a Schottky for this, it's NOT dropping the .7V/diode that you want dropped)

For those wanting more info, check the wikipedia article on flyback diodes ;) And inductive kick. (If you skip the math in the flyback diode article, it's okay, you'll still get the idea)

OHHH Math My head hurts thanks Tug I think [;)]

what you think because you guys got two Baseball teams and two Football teams your the only ones with water LOL sounds like a plan thanks Rob [:D]

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Originally posted by djranier

Ok, so what is powering your receiver, the 7.2 volt pack. or the 12 volts, you need to be more specific please?

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I made two harnesses so I can use either the 6v reciever pack using the servo extension with diodes, or the 6V Sla with a similar adapter

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Originally posted by Powder Monkey

what you think because you guys got two Baseball teams and two Football teams your the only ones with water LOL sounds like a plan thanks Rob [:D]

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Three football teams! Not that they are all in the state though, It's rumored there is water out there but I can't see it from my garage. Tug is right about the diodes on the solenoid side but I am talking on the pwersource for the gun board side and of course we check them cause I don't believe nothin' til I see it. Don't sweat the boards, when you are ready I will sned you through gun board 101 school and get em wired. I like the harness idea and we may just run one servo extension if you want to keep it simple.

Fred,
If your power train goes 12v large SLA battery to ESC with servo leads going to the Team Delta Boards, you are fine. the ESC has the BEC function actually a true regulator not just a dropping diode which is better. This is a fine source of power and does not require any dropping diode such as 1N4001 or the Schottky. As long as you do not have any problems with radio frequency interference from having your motors, esc and receiver in the same system, this is an excellent way to handle power- arguably the best. The info from Mtronicks says that the newest ESC's use optoisolation in the lines to achieve this which is why they no longer offer their "glitch eliminator" which was an optoisolator. If you do get glitching, there are other solutions. perhaps I need to do a thread on start to finish wiring options?

BTW, WeeVee at Nats 2008 ran 2 of the surplustrader.com 5 pole 555 Mabuchi motors direct drive with a single 15 Amp Mtronicks speed control - never got warm. never popped a fuse - yes, I fuse the inputs. Lesson - low current draw, efficient motors that give the correct rpm are the way to go.

Issue 2 - consider finding a 12v 12,000 rpm or higher motor for the bilge pump. There are lots around such as many battery drill motors and all the motors we have tried in recent years that said they were 5000 rpm and weren't. Don can help you with this :) Then you can use one 12 volt sla for everything -simpler, less things to charge, no need for peak chargers, cheaper batteries, it's not like you can't handle the weight in SoDak, Larger batteries handle large currents better,the list keeps going. I use 12V 18 Ah in WeeVee and 2 sorties uses 1/3 of the capacity. Think about it.

Nate

As Nate says it would be better to just use a 12 volt system, and run the receiver off the ESC, which has a 5 volt output. So the Team Delta's firing card will not require the Diode in series, Tuggy in this case it would be in series.

Some ESC's actually have a 5.5 or 6 volt output from the BEC, but if I remember right the unit you ordered outputs 5 volts.

Another problem I have seen using the BEC output with the Spektrum receivers, is that when you are firing the guns, and then throw over the rudder, the rudder servo loads down the BEC output to the point that the receiver can start glitching, or even come unlocked. What I did here was to pull the center lead of the servo, red wire so that it no longer goes to the receiver, and run it directly to the 6 volt power, actually makes the rudder servo work better anyways due to the higher voltage.

David, I think that we got crossed up; I'm saying that the flyback diode goes in parallel with the load, not one in the control power circuit used to drop voltage, which would be in series between the power supply and the TD card.

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Another problem I have seen using the BEC output with the Spektrum receivers, is that when you are firing the guns, and then throw over the rudder, the rudder servo loads down the BEC output to the point that the receiver can start glitching, or even come unlocked. What I did here was to pull the center lead of the servo, red wire so that it no longer goes to the receiver, and run it directly to the 6 volt power, actually makes the rudder servo work better anyways due to the higher voltage.

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That's a cool idea, where does the servo pick up negative or does that come off the black servo wire?

The center red, and black return needs to be tied to the same power source. I actually used a 3 inch servo jumper, with male and female connector attached, and removed both the Red and Black wires from the female servo jumper connector, and added a Dean's mini connector to go to the power supply, and just left the signal, the yellow or orange wire going to the female servo jumper connector. That way a new servo can be swapped out with no problems in the field.

After I did this I have had no more Spektrum receiver glitchyness or disconnects.

That's what I thought, Thanks!