Water Channeling materials
Last Post 30 Apr 2009 03:24 PM by Stokamoto. 31 Replies.
AddThis - Bookmarking and Sharing ButtonPrinter Friendly
Sort:
PrevPrevNextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 1 of 212 > >>
AuthorMessages
Powder MonkeyUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1467
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 03:16 PM
OK I know there is stuff all over this forum on Water channeling got sick of searching so lets beat a dead horse

Looking for what every one is using for materials to make there water channeling lets get them all in one spot so dopes like me dont have to go searching [:D]

I used Touch n Foam Black (this is an polyurethane sealant) in the Boston looking for something a little better maybe

thanks
Monk

IRCWCC Fast Guns New England Task Force, http://netfrc.com 

 

USS Massachusetts BB 59 South Dakota Class Battleship

Awards
2008:
Nothing But Wet, and it sure was fun

2009:
Best of scale War Ship
Ball Buster award

So do or do not. There is no try

 

Evil JokerUser is Offline
Veteran
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:615
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 03:51 PM
um thinking of useing this http://www.owencarpet.com/rubber_carpet_pad.htm in my next ship for Water channeling or something like it
Southern California Region Attack Patrol (SCRAP)
http://www.scrapcombatships.com
SMS Konig - Battle Ready
SMS Von der Tann - Battle Ready
DMB Scipione Africano - Battle Ready
DKM Prinz Eugen - Battle Ready
BoomerBoy17User is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2099
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 05:01 PM
Im going to use the self-leveling concrete crack sealer on my spee
Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, -Psalm 23.
Evil JokerUser is Offline
Veteran
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:615
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 06:03 PM
i the used self-leveling on my koing made me over wight. good for some ships but stays soft
Southern California Region Attack Patrol (SCRAP)
http://www.scrapcombatships.com
SMS Konig - Battle Ready
SMS Von der Tann - Battle Ready
DMB Scipione Africano - Battle Ready
DKM Prinz Eugen - Battle Ready
Powder MonkeyUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1467
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 06:08 PM
one of our guys had trouble in his MA too with that stuff he removed it [V]

IRCWCC Fast Guns New England Task Force, http://netfrc.com 

 

USS Massachusetts BB 59 South Dakota Class Battleship

Awards
2008:
Nothing But Wet, and it sure was fun

2009:
Best of scale War Ship
Ball Buster award

So do or do not. There is no try

 

Evil JokerUser is Offline
Veteran
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:615
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 06:11 PM
that carpet pad stuff is like a wetsuit.drop it in the bottom and cut as you go then resin 2-3 times. its light too
Southern California Region Attack Patrol (SCRAP)
http://www.scrapcombatships.com
SMS Konig - Battle Ready
SMS Von der Tann - Battle Ready
DMB Scipione Africano - Battle Ready
DKM Prinz Eugen - Battle Ready
DELETEDUser is Offline
[ROLES:Veteran]
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:67
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 06:31 PM
For my water channelling I use foam blocks. I had a open hull (i.e. non-fiberglass) I would cut blocks and slide between ribs Very snug. then take a belt sander and sand down the hull. The blocks would take out space up to the 1" below W/L mark across the whole hull. then I used the West System and harden the hull. Then using a sander, knife, dremel, drill, grinder or what ever would work I carved out the inside to my specs. Then used the West to seal it all up. If I remember right you got one of those fiberglass hulls. You could use the foam block and build a "plug" so to speak. and insert it in the bottom using west to firmly attach it then carve to your specs and west again. That would take a little time sanding the plug and trying to make it fit tight. Air pockets could/may become exposed and could fill with water thus defeating the purpose. Maybe spay foam and then carve and west. But you still run the risk of air pockets with that. Balsa wood is a great bet. I use to get these balsa block bag which had about a 1/6 of a cubic foot of various blocks. But then you got to shape each block to fit. I've never did a fiberglass hull so I would be speculating but my first attempt would be with the spray foam. For several reasons. 1. I have control on where it's going 2. hull conforming 3. It aint too bad cutting out 4. Mistakes can be easy to correct (but not all) 5. If I screw the whole damn thing up it will come out it in a reasonable amount of time and effort . The down side 1. can be a major mess 2. Have to wait for the stuff to cure 3. can't put on too thick or the stuff won't cure.
The final choice is up to you. See what others have to say before you go thru and put on in. Also keep in mind that you need to make room for everything so preplanning where stuff goes is vital and making allowances. My channelling incorporated a spot for my co2 tank to sit center of the hull. Lots to think about when doing this. Good luck
Danny
Danny #3
Powder MonkeyUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1467
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 06:53 PM
thanks Dan

IRCWCC Fast Guns New England Task Force, http://netfrc.com 

 

USS Massachusetts BB 59 South Dakota Class Battleship

Awards
2008:
Nothing But Wet, and it sure was fun

2009:
Best of scale War Ship
Ball Buster award

So do or do not. There is no try

 

djranierUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1447
Avatar

--
14 Jan 2009 08:02 PM
None of us have had weight issues using the concrete sealer, they must of put it in to thick. I have it in both my PE, and Kumano.
Its better to give than to receive. Southeast Attack Squadron
BoomerBoy17User is Offline
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2099
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 03:00 AM
Im doing a very small layer, and i can always remove some.
Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, -Psalm 23.
Powder MonkeyUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1467
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 08:29 AM
This is it I know there are way more ideas out there lets go boy's let the cat out of the bag

IRCWCC Fast Guns New England Task Force, http://netfrc.com 

 

USS Massachusetts BB 59 South Dakota Class Battleship

Awards
2008:
Nothing But Wet, and it sure was fun

2009:
Best of scale War Ship
Ball Buster award

So do or do not. There is no try

 

JustinScottUser is Offline
Founder
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2176
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 09:38 AM
I used concrete sealer.... and I put too much on. It took like 2 weeks to dry. But it is dry completely now. Good to go! :)
Cheers,
jks
DKM Tirpitz
Powder MonkeyUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1467
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 10:01 AM
so your Boat is like stoned now [:p] all kidding aside Concrete sealer ?

IRCWCC Fast Guns New England Task Force, http://netfrc.com 

 

USS Massachusetts BB 59 South Dakota Class Battleship

Awards
2008:
Nothing But Wet, and it sure was fun

2009:
Best of scale War Ship
Ball Buster award

So do or do not. There is no try

 

radollar2000User is Offline
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:120
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 01:09 PM
Concrete sealer is what I'm using, seems kinda heavy though so I might end up cutting some out.
djranierUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1447
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 03:01 PM
It is a polyurathane rubber, dries grey in color, can be glued to, and is flexable.
Its better to give than to receive. Southeast Attack Squadron
JustinScottUser is Offline
Founder
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Rear Admiral (RADM)
Send Private Message
Posts:2176
Avatar

--
15 Jan 2009 03:36 PM
Yeah, its just a rubber. I didn't notice the weight change... but then again, I drive battleships.
Cheers,
jks
DKM Tirpitz
froggyfrenchmanUser is Offline
Vice Admiral
Vice Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:3011
Avatar

--
16 Jan 2009 05:48 AM
You have to be careful when buying the concrete patch stuff. There are quite a few different types, and some are heavier than others.
Make sure you get the self-leveling type, and put it in thin. Perhaps 1/8" to 3/16" thick. That way it dries in a reasonable amount of time. You can probably pour it in seperate layers if you need it to be thick.
David R. posted a photo of the type we use here in Ohio. It seemed really light to me.
Mikey
StokamotoUser is Offline
Stokomoto
Admiral
Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:4007
Avatar

--
16 Jan 2009 06:57 AM
Yea I used the wrong type in PE. It was like a concrete paste,not very fluid at all. Difficult to level out too. It took many days to dry. It did work in providing excellent stability and for water channelling. Does anybody have any pix of brands to post here of the correct types?
Bismarck Yamato Roma Missouri
froggyfrenchmanUser is Offline
Vice Admiral
Vice Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:3011
Avatar

--
16 Jan 2009 06:59 AM
I think the photo was posted by David R.
Either his P.E. build, or perhaps in Mike's Bearn build area.
Mikey
froggyfrenchmanUser is Offline
Vice Admiral
Vice Admiral
Send Private Message
Posts:3011
Avatar

--
16 Jan 2009 07:05 AM
The photo is in David's "My new project V.U. thread. Page 2. last photo.
In the warship builds area (I think).
Mikey
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 1 of 212 > >>


Active Forums 4.1
You must be logged in to use this module.