battle damage repair
Last Post 29 Apr 2008 06:43 AM by JohnmCA72. 7 Replies.
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rowboat captainUser is Offline
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28 Apr 2008 02:33 PM
how do you repair battle damage...

A. At the lake?

B. At home after a weekend battle?
Gettysburg114thUser is Offline
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28 Apr 2008 03:14 PM
Just a littls silkspan and model airplane dope or Ambroid cement.
Uberpooperscooper Bobo DKM Bismarck (battle ready) IJN Yamato (Dockyards IJN Kirishima (Dockyards) IJN Mogami (Dockyards) IJN Agano (Dockyards) SMS Lutzow (Dockyards) http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TreatyCombat/
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28 Apr 2008 04:59 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rowboat captain

how do you repair battle damage...

A. At the lake?

Paper "hospital" tape. It's basically silkspan on a 1/2" roll with an adhesive back. Can't get much more convenient than that. Tear off a piece, stick it on, & slap some dope over it.
quote:
B. At home after a weekend battle?


If I don't have too many holes, I'll punch out 1/2" plugs & replace them with fresh balsa, likewise punched out. Apply a little silkspan & dope, then paint over. If more than 8-10, & depending on where they are, it's usually faster & easier to just re-skin. Sometimes, I'll just re-skin a side or a portion of a side, if there's a lot of damage in a smaller area. I've got re-skinning down to a good art & can do it pretty quickly.

JM
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28 Apr 2008 08:07 PM
really? its easier to reskin if you've got more than say 15 holes? gees that sounds like a lot of work. and I thought fast gun patching could be tedious.
JohnmCA72User is Offline
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28 Apr 2008 08:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SnipeHunter

really? its easier to reskin if you've got more than say 15 holes? gees that sounds like a lot of work. and I thought fast gun patching could be tedious.


It depends on the damage, & some ships are easier than others, but in general, yeah I think so. Unless Axis gunnery really sucks over a number of battles, I usually figure on reskinning every other battle at least. Once I completely reskinned my Nelson in less time than a friend was able to patch about that many holes in another ship. Of course, a big part of being able to do that is being ready. I keep a bunch of doped/silkspanned balsa sheets all prepped & ready to go, so it's pretty quick & easy when the time comes. The old comes off easily (Nobel Prize nominations for the inventors of the Dremel Moto-tool & hand-held sanders!). Total time is about 3-5 hours, spread out over 3-5 evenings (sometimes more, if there are multiple colors such as for a camo job), to let various things dry.

Day 1: Strip off old hull sheet; grind off old glue; glue new sheets onto hull; trim, sand, apply wood filler. Time: Approx. 2 hours.

Day 2: Sand dried filler (no point in using anything finer than #60); apply additional filler to low spots if necessary; dope & paint with spray primer. Time: Approx. 1 hour.

Day 3: 2nd coat primer if necessary; mask off waterline & spray red below. Time: Approx. 30-60 min.

Day 4: Mask off & spray additional colors if necessary; apply boot tape; spray overall with clear dope (helps keep tape from coming up). Time: Approx. 30-60 min.

JM
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29 Apr 2008 02:21 AM
Where are you applying the filler? Gaps between sheets?
Battling: SMS Scharnhorst, SMS Baden Building: HMS KGV (Drives, pumps water, guns are in but not plumbed) MN Edgar Quinet (Hull done) Drydock/Mothballed: Rus Evstafi, DKM Lutzow, HMS Invincible Plus 20-odd other projects, according to my Boy Scouts who thoughtfully counted them for me.
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29 Apr 2008 04:18 AM
I use contact cement to hold the balsa sheeting off. I guess I'm lucky in that I have never had to us a sander or dremel to to resheet. We do use 1/32 balsa. That may be the reason why.
Uberpooperscooper Bobo DKM Bismarck (battle ready) IJN Yamato (Dockyards IJN Kirishima (Dockyards) IJN Mogami (Dockyards) IJN Agano (Dockyards) SMS Lutzow (Dockyards) http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TreatyCombat/
JohnmCA72User is Offline
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29 Apr 2008 06:43 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Tugboat

Where are you applying the filler? Gaps between sheets?


Yes, gaps as well as to smooth the fillets to blend the sheet edges into the hull chines, bow, stern, etc.

JM
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