R/C Naval Combat

I would let you know if I had any fiberglass left my local shop ran out and promised it to me today got there and he said tomorrow I like to support the local guy if I can however I could have had it a lot faster on line and not dealt with the oh well attitude like he was doing me a favor what is this world coming too no one cares about service and integrity any more [:(!]

what did you do go to Home depot??? :-P

Probably had better luck there at least they ask you how you are doing before sucking your Wallet dry [;)]

Napa stores usually carry fiberglass in $6 bags...

what weight?

Pretty heavy, I don't remember off the top of my head, but it was heavier than the "heavy" that Hobbytown was selling.

Hey Powser where locally can you get CA glue and accenlerator? The only place I know of near me is Hyannis and that is 45 mins away. Hobby stores are getting scarce around here.

THER IS ONE 10 MIN FROM MY HOUSE
He sells the big bottle to[;)]

The true test just glassed my hull hope it is dry for the build session tomorrow [:0] LOL

Hope you have a tank big enough for me to float my hull so I can find the water mark. It won't fit in my tub. going to have to buy a kiddie pool. I will need to pick up some ca glue went I get to your house.

I have a 27 by 15 pool will that work? just watch out for the icebergs [;)]

The main difference between you "Bondo" and
your "West System" is that Bondo is a polyester
resin and the West System is an epoxy resin.
Polyester resins are much cheaper to buy than
epoxy resins. Polyester resins use a few drops
of hardener per cup of resin, while epoxy resins
are typically more of a larger ratio mix.
(by the way they do not play well together)
That is why they "SMELL" different. A longer
working time will give you a smoother finish.

If bulking up, use Cut strand Mat, not woven cloth.
Woven cloth cannot be layered over woven cloth
it is not good, if you need to layer either
use just cut strand mat or alternate cut strand
mat with woven cloth. If you use Resin WITHOUT
"air-Dry" or "wax" it is easier to add layers afterward
even if it dried, if you use resin with those
ingredients you will have to clean and sand the parts
to try and get a good chemical bond between the layers.

Resins when mixed with hardener will"Cook-OFF"
if left in a cup or pail as they are "Mass Sensitive"
and the larger the "Lump" of resin/hardener you mix up
the faster it will go as it generates its own heat.
To slow this down after mixing well in your cup
pour it into a disposable paint roller tray or other
dish that is not as deep and spreads the resin/hardener
mix out more, or better yet pour it over your mat in the
mold and spread it out. for small batches always use weight
to mix or graduated measuring devices.

Both of these have a temperature range where they will
not set up and or will set up really slowly, humidity and
barometric pressure will also affect drying times.
Basically they like a nice sunny, dry day, in the mid 70's.

Hope that helps a little at least. I am no expert
but iam learning as I go.....(a little at least)