Cannon choice
Last Post 16 Oct 2008 10:14 PM by Iceman. 28 Replies.
AddThis - Bookmarking and Sharing ButtonPrinter Friendly
Sort:
PrevPrevNextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 2 of 2 << < 12
AuthorMessages
Greg McFaddenUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1439
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 01:14 PM
I have taken to making my own out of plastic. but in the past I have used solid rivets of the proper diameter, cut to the proper length.

if properly done you can use the hex cap under the piston to to any necessary fine adjustment on piston height.

the spring is also critical. I got my best results not using any spring (as far as rate of fire and no double fires) but it would occasionally jam.. making it useless. it does not take much of a spring, so long as the piston is mounted roughly vertical.
warspiteIRCUser is Offline
Veteran
Lieutenant
Lieutenant
Send Private Message
Posts:476
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 01:45 PM
Rivets, screws, brass or Stainless Steel turned down, even DuBro Wheel colors. Whatever works!
BobUser is Offline
Commander
Commander
Send Private Message
Posts:619
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 04:21 PM
I have used a stainless steel #8 wood screw that is 2 1/2" long. They have a smooth end I just cut them off where the threads start. you can get them at any hardware store. DON'T get the Zink coated ones. Make sure they are stainless steel.
BryanUser is Offline
Veteran
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:260
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 07:01 PM
quote:
Originally posted by t_josef


Which is better & Why for fast gun ships?

Piston interrupted or Ball bearing selector gun?

And is there a good source for detailed plans for a piston interrupter cannon? ~ That shows size/ tolerances of moving parts?

I have one purchased through a supplier for reverse engineering, but wanted plans to give to my friend the machinist.





The piston ones are more forgiving
if you are making your own the ball
bearing ones are easy to mess up if
not made to correct size and depth.

Just my 2 cents

Bryan, ~~ Member of the OAF, ~~ Ontario Attack Force ~~ Happy dad to battling sons. ~~ ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/ ~~ Fleet: DKM Bismarck SMS Hindenburg SMS Scharnhorst DKM Adm Scheer DKM Nordmark ~~ Molding: USN Tennessee USN Gearing IJN Mogami IJN Akizuki and decks turrets etc. ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/photos/album/18#
BryanUser is Offline
Veteran
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:260
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 07:10 PM
quote:
Originally posted by t_josef

What do you use for the "selector" part of the cannon.? Is it a turned down aluminum nail? Is it a sheer pin from the slide out drawers at the hardware store, or some sort of rivet?



Use stainless steel screws
not galvanized steel (they will rust and jam your gun)
don't use aluminum they wear down fast hitting brass
fittings and steel balls all the time.

[:D][:D]
Bryan, ~~ Member of the OAF, ~~ Ontario Attack Force ~~ Happy dad to battling sons. ~~ ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/ ~~ Fleet: DKM Bismarck SMS Hindenburg SMS Scharnhorst DKM Adm Scheer DKM Nordmark ~~ Molding: USN Tennessee USN Gearing IJN Mogami IJN Akizuki and decks turrets etc. ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/photos/album/18#
BryanUser is Offline
Veteran
Ensign
Ensign
Send Private Message
Posts:260
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 07:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Bob

I have used a stainless steel #8 wood screw that is 2 1/2" long. They have a smooth end I just cut them off where the threads start. you can get them at any hardware store. DON'T get the Zink coated ones. Make sure they are stainless steel.



What Bob said.....[:D]
Bryan, ~~ Member of the OAF, ~~ Ontario Attack Force ~~ Happy dad to battling sons. ~~ ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/ ~~ Fleet: DKM Bismarck SMS Hindenburg SMS Scharnhorst DKM Adm Scheer DKM Nordmark ~~ Molding: USN Tennessee USN Gearing IJN Mogami IJN Akizuki and decks turrets etc. ~~ http://ontarioattackforce.multiply.com/photos/album/18#
IcemanUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1220
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 09:34 PM
we use tinners rivets, stainless steel and no need for cutting, the only problem is where to find them. the springs are from smallparts.com., berillium copper ones.
Rob A.
USS Alabama
USS Arizona
USS Saratoga
DKM Bismarck
USS John Brown

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NYBG/
RichelieuBBUser is Offline
Veteran
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1417
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 10:04 PM
Rarena, do you have a part number for those springs?
Mike Mangus

Beware the French Revolution!
Operational:
HMS Erin DN
FN Richelieu BB
FN Verite PDN

Launched
Le Requin Xebec (AoS)

Under Construction:
FN Mogador DE
FN Gascogne BB (Treaty)
FN Bretagne (1/96) (delayed)

Mothballed:
FN Bearn CV
IcemanUser is Offline
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Rear Admiral (RDML)
Send Private Message
Posts:1220
Avatar

--
16 Oct 2008 10:14 PM
SPRINGS
beryllium copper,silver coated .240 od. (1 spring does 2-3 )
B-CS-53
Rob A.
USS Alabama
USS Arizona
USS Saratoga
DKM Bismarck
USS John Brown

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NYBG/
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 2 of 2 << < 12


Active Forums 4.1
You must be logged in to use this module.